Line, Leader, and Knots - Tips, Tricks, and Recommendations

When I first started tubing, I had been away from fishing for 20 years so I was essentially starting from scratch. In the beginning, I was losing a lot of fish and lures and it was all due to poor choices in line, leader, knots, and drag settings. I was a mess, but I've definitely improved by paying better attention to what I'm doing on the water and by experimenting and acting on the advice from others.

So I think this could be a helpful thread for noobs like me!

The Palomar knot always worked well for me back in the trout days using mono, but when I went to a fluorocarbon leader, I started losing fish and lures due to breaking off at the knot. We all know what a buzz kill that is. Maybe I was doing something wrong, but when I switched to the [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] all those issues went away.

FWIW, I use the [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] for my braid to fluorocarbon connection. I generally try to use a leader about half the length of my rod so the knot isn't yet into the guides when I'm netting the fish.

As for drag settings, I was obviously setting it too tight, but the reason is because I was testing the drag by pulling on the line at the reel and not feeling all the extra drag you get from a taught line going over a bunch of rod guides. I now test the drag by pulling on the line at the lure end so it's taught on the guides and I can feel the true total drag.

So with those issues out of the way, here's what I'm currently using for line and leader  - main line is 20 lb Daiwa Samurai Braid (on the recommendation of SP Dan made here). It's noticeably smoother running through the rod guides, which means it casts farther than the PowerPro braid I was using. I like the sensitivity and strength of the braid. My leader is 10 lb Seaguar Blue Label Saltwater Fluorocarbon. After trying no leader and old school mono and fluorocarbon for leaders, the fluorocarbon got more fish. At first the stiffness was a pain when tying knots, but I've adapted and now it's no problem.

I have no idea if this would apply to fresh water and there are lots of more experienced guys here than me, so I'm curious what lines and leaders and knots y'all are using.

Thanks Bob nice write up I will look at the Samurai Braid in time and I also like the Floro Leader to mono. My knots are still just the Improved Clinch Knot because it is what I have always tied. Maybe this summer I will work on a few new knots. I also have lost fish because of the drag but in the opposite way forgetting to tighten my drag. I have gone to set the hook only to notice that the drag is so loss that there is no hook set possible, but it makes sense to check at the time as when I miss because of this issue I will crank down my drag to tight I am sure. Thanks for the info and keep up the research I hope to join you in this research over the summer.

Lines, Leaders and Nots, misspelled on purpose.

Ok, lines, well I have gone thru more than I have wanted when its comes to experimenting with different types of lines, mono, fluorocarbon and braid. Right off i'm not a big fan of fluorocarbon. Stiff , need right knots to tie. Braid for me is boat fishing gear. Larger fish, heavier gear.
When it comes to say 15# braid, I find I need to retie line to leader on every outing. I have had my share of knots that don't hold or break. I'm currently using Platypus 8# high vis yellow braid with a 10# Izorline XXX Co-polymer mono as leader material. I'm with Bob Polaris knot. I retie the knot before each outing. My second rig is Diawa 8 -15# braid, green, with same leader. The sensitivity is awesome on the braid, especially the 8# braid. I don't get the distance with braid when casting a 1/4 ounce HUB.

After all that has been said, I get more fish on fishing straight 10# XXX co-polymer than with braided/leader lines. And I have no fear of knots not holding. The line is flexible but really tough and strong. On my Diawa spinning reel with a 7"4" medium light SixGill rod. I get better distance with the Co-P, which then allows me to cover a lot of area in a short amount of time fishing the flats at HH

This is a great topic, hope others will chime in......thanks Bob.........GT

Thanks GT!

You're another recommendation from a trusted source for the Izorline XXX Co-polymer. Ok, I'm in - just ordered 300 yrd spool on eBay.

I also tie on a new leader at the start of every session and usually end up tying on a new leader for one reason or another at some point and even though it's not a big deal, it's time on the water that I'm not fishing. The idea of not having to mess around with a leader is very appealing to me. It bugs me to be on the water and not be fishing because I'm screwing around with my gear.

This is the kind of stuff I need. All of this spot on point.

Thanks, folks.

All good stuff

SP Dan     <"))><

All good advice here.
With braid you can FEEL so much more than straight mono it is worth learning some knots. For now the Royal Polaris knot is my favorite for braid to leader as well. The problem I had was knots going through micro guides, it just doesn't work for me. I agree with Bob on the San Diego Jam Knot as well. It works on braid, fluoro, or mono.

I hope this helps

Yeah, can't go wrong with a San Diego Jam knot with the flouro. FWIW, if you're gonna tie an Improved Clinch knot with flouro, you might as well just tie the SD knot - you're going through the same basic motions and you won't get the slippage.  Just because tying it is a habit, I use it with mono now where ever I use to tie an Improved Clinch knot.

If you need action (free swinging) for small artificials, tying a Rapala knot helps.  Stupid easy to tie.  When I'm throwing surface iron, it's a SD jam knot with the mono.

FG knot for braid to flouro is arguably the best.  Small and strong.  

When I'm surf fishing and throwing artificials, it's 30lb braid (it's my backing) to 10lb mono for shock, a Seaguar knot has been more than enough for me. Fast and easy to tie a little clunky when it does go through guides though but not too bad.  My surf rod guides are a little larger than normal.

When I'm float tube in saltwater, it's fly fishing for me. Welded loops on running lines to a mono perfection loop or even just a double overhand loop is good enough.  I tie my own leaders, if you can call it that - a butt section of 20lb mono and a "tippet" of 10 or 12lb mono get connected with an extra, extra large dropper loop.  I cut the loop open, close to the bottom end of the knot, for my dropper fly and the tag end gets the point.  The bass around here aren't line shy - I wouldn't say they're dumb, just aggressive.  You could bedazzle your running line and as long as your flies aren't covered in grass or have another fish on them, you'll probably get bit.

Freshwater tubing is similar but with 12 or 15lb butt and 6 or 8lb tippet for stripping flies. Midging is a whole different story.




I've only ever Izor Spectra.  Never had a problem.

chipmcd that is great info buddy this thread is really stacking up with amazing useful info keep it coming guys.