Is cold bad for your tube?

I dont really have a house (I live on base in the barracks) so i cant really bring my tube inside. I left it partially inflated last night because I was still working on my PVC rod rack. This morning I came outside and opened the valve to deflate it. I let air out but the tube was stiff and stood up on its own.


Soooo...is this.bad for my tube? Im sure it's not good but is it really harming the life of my tube? Its gettin pretty cold out every night and some nights theres a lot of frost...essentially freezing my tube nightly.

thats a good question MASSfisher, I want to say no. Now in the summer time you want to let out of air out of tube so the heat dosent make the bladders expand due to the air inside and causing the bladders to pop or the outter shell to rip.
I keep my tube outside as well but I make sure to let alot of air out of it so it dosent expand.

Yea I always let air out. The other night it was half full to get a basic idea of how big i needed to make my rod rack.

Hey massfisher,
here are a few of my thoughts about this subject as well as a few ideas on how to help your tube last a bit longer.

Weathering is a problem for the synthetic materials that most of our tubes and toons are made of. But it is a cumulative affect. Yes exposure to cold weather does wear on your tube, especially if your tube is wet when you put it to bed. (freezing your tube solid,? not good) Sunlight is by far the most destructive thing for the plastic materials. Saltwater as well. Over inflation, and constant deflation and inflation can stress sewn and welded (glued or heat) seams.
Over the years and after owning 4 tubes and this now being my second set of toons (the same frame) I have developed a few techniques that I think are helping me care for my toons the best way possible.

1) When my new toons arrived last month I first sprayed the polyurethane bladders with Novus Plastic Polish. The Novus polish is a conditioner and polish which makes the plastic surface very slick. I then placed the bladders inside the outer shells after blowing them (the outer shells) out with an air nozzle to make sure there were no bits of sand or dirt that would rub between the bladder and the shell.
2) I then inflated my toons in stages until they were quite hard. The slick surface of the inner bladder then had a chance to slip and slide into place filling the outer shell completely eliminating wrinkles and folds.
I firmly believe that the more solid your tube or toon is, with fewer wrinkles or folds, the faster and more maneuverable it is. It is also more structurally integral, so things like rod holders and meter mounts work better.
I have been told by some that I over inflate my toons but the manufacturer agrees with me that the more solid the bladders the more efficient the boat. Specific inflation rates do exist for most boats but are rarely published. I have a tire gauge that actually reads down to 1lb PSI but I can no longer use it with the modern inflation valves. So I am limited to the squeeze test. I used to inflate to as much as 12lbs PSI. (an extreme situation at high altitude and freezing cold weather)
3) after every fishing trip I wash my toon down with fresh water and let it dry before storage, especially after a day in the salt. Always wash your tube or toon at full inflation to prevent water and debris getting between the outer shell and the inner bladder. It will try and enter thru the zippers.
4) I never deflate my toons! Don't deflate the tube or toon to where the inner bladder can become separated from the outer. The Idea here is to make the inner bladder and the outer shell one integral hull and not to separate them ever, unless you absolutely have to!
5) Regularly check your boat when it is in storage for long periods and make sure it is still well inflated.
6) I highly suggest you do not completely deflate and separate the inner from the outer unless you need to. Reinslalling and reinflating can be difficult, and can cause wrinkles and folds which can produce wear spots.
7) Especially if you beach launch in the surf or just fish in places where sand can be introduced you may have to regularly completely deflate and clean between the bladder and the outer shell. Sand will wear holes if caught between the two. It will enter through the zippers. This is the only situation where I think you may have to completely deflate and separate the two. Man what a hassle!
I highly recommend occasional cleaning and conditioning of the outer shell with some kind of plastic conditioner. And regularly waxing your zippers. DON'T USE OILY CLEANERS, WAXES, OR POLISHES!!!! look for products specific for polyurethane for the inner bladder, (Novus) and nylon or polyester for the outer.(most car interior products).
9) Beware of contact points with after market "strap on" accessories. I love all of your PVC rod and meter holders, but may I suggest you 'all be aware of the edges of the PVC connections so they do not cause chafe marks which can lead to the outer shell wearing. Again the tighter the surface of your tube the less chance of these accessories moving and chafing!

In summation a clean, fully inflated tube or toon is a happy boat!

hope this helps, bodfish

PS
MASSFISHER, I have the advantage of having a garage to store my fully inflated boat in. And a truck with a custom built, removable, tube and toon rack to transport an inflated boat with. ( I can transport two fully inflated toons or as many as eight tubes) If you must store your boat outside can I suggest you find or have made, a white, breathable, bag to cover your boat with? Most importantly you need to keep your boat dry and shaded when storing it.

MERRY XMAS EVERYBODY!!!

Dang bodfish....thanks for the reply. That helped big time!

Just cover the tube with something and your good.