1 post: PVC vs Bladder/Shell. & Length Selection.

Thrilled to have discovered this forum.

First post and if I may, I have two questions. Perhaps I am dense but I did not know how to do a search of this forum so I went through the most recent 15 pages and did not find any discussion on my questions so I hope it is Ok to post here.

1. Construction: PVC vs Bladder & Sheel design.

As I searched online, I see that there are two primary construction methods. First, there is the single-layer PVC where there is just one layer of material. Brands include the likes of Seven Bass, Scadden, etc. Then there is the 2 layer design where there are an internal air bladder and an outer shell. Brands include Outcast, Cumberland, etc.

What are the pros and cons of each design? IF the cost of both designs are exactly the same, is there one that would trump the other? I own five inflatable kayaks and all of them are single layer designs (PVC, Hypalon, etc) For inflatable kayaks, I avoid the bladder/shell design because it is a pain to dry. However, I see that the bladder/shell design dominate the float tube market so I'd love to know your thoughts.

2. Float tubes run a gamut of sizes from about 5 feet/150cm and up. Some run up to 8.5 feet/260cm or even more such as the Scadden. Some of the longer ones come with a trolling motor mount.

Question - who does one decide on the length besides how much one weighs. Would one of those 8.5 feet long affairs be much more difficult to control with flippers?

3. Then there is these new-fangled looking thing such as the Seven Bass flat drop stiched saucer looking things. Are there drawbacks to these beyond weight and cost?

I know that I asked a lot of questions for a 1st post. Thanks in advance for any help. Very glad to have found this forum.

Welcome to the forum glad you found us let's break this down for you.  This is just my opinion others might have a different take on this.

1. Construction: PVC vs Bladder & Sheel design.
So the different as I see it and I have been in most of these tubes) or the pro's and con's are as follows.

The Bladder and Cover kind have been the norm in the US for ever and have some good solid designs, the Cumberland being one of the tops on my float tube list.
The PVC boats have been around for years as well, but still pretty new in the US.  They also have some very different designs and there are a few on my top list including the Maxxon 240 (no sold anymore) and the Buck's Bags Roughneck.

2. Float tubes run a gamut of sizes from about 5 feet/150cm and up. Some run up to 8.5 feet/260cm or even more such as the Scadden. Some of the longer ones come with a trolling motor mount.

Question - who does one decide on the length besides how much one weighs. Would one of those 8.5 feet long affairs be much more difficult to control with flippers?

Length is a personal choice as far as I see it I don't like the shorter tubes.  The ones that don't have much past the seat.  If you lean to far forward you could tip easy and it has happend.  I know most don't like the longer tubes but both of my current tubes are 7' long and are very stable on the wate.  Length gives you more stability in my book but it is a bit of a trad off as for as storing and just moving it around (not on the water I will explain.) The longer boats seem as if they would be harder to control in the water but the handle very well.  I contribute this to the PVC they glide great over and through the the water.

3. Then there is these new-fangled looking thing such as the Seven Bass flat drop stiched saucer looking things. Are there drawbacks to these beyond weight and cost?
I am not a fan of 7 Bass if you want to know more just ask and I will explain.  There product is very good and I did use there Flatform tube.  It was good but the Maxxon 240 which is flat out performed the Flatform by leaps and bounds.  The benefit of the float boats are 2 things. 1. they are low profile so the current below cannot get you and wind from above does not effect you as much either.
2. They have more working space on top to add and take other items with you if you desire. I really see no down side other then the weight but if you are going to go with a PVC type boat most are heavy anyway.

I know that I asked a lot of questions for a 1st post. Thanks in advance for any help. Very glad to have found this forum.
Welcome once again and if you have anymore questions or want more clarification please don't hesitate to ask this is what they forum is for.

One other things to add about the canvas cover tubes. If and when you spring a leak in a bladder you will need to take the bladder out for repairs. Put it back in later can be tough. The PVC all fixes if needed are on the outside quick and simple.

Thanks JeffCPR, huge thanks.   That was quick!

And to all, please keep the comments coming.

Thanks!

Welcome to the forum FloatTubeIQ.

Jeff covered your questions well. I would ask what you intended to do with the tube.
Can you drive up to the shoreline and drop your tube in?  
Do you have to park and carry the tube any distance?
What kind of vehicle will you use to transport?


Knowing these things will tell you how big and heavy you want your tube.

Thanks. I can drive right up to the shoreline. Vehicle is small though - a car or small SUV so I would have to fully inflate by the water. What I do with kayaks is to partially inflate, fold in half, and then a K-pump will fill the rest up to 3 psi in 5 minutes.

FloatTubeIQ wrote:Thanks. I can drive right up to the shoreline.  Vehicle is small though - a car or small SUV so I would have to fully inflate by the water. What I do with kayaks is to partially inflate, fold in half, and then a K-pump will fill the rest up to 3 psi in 5 minutes.

That will work for float tubes as well. Partially inflated to store in your vehicle with smaller cars.