question about line selection

I normally fish 6lb mono (after reading Fish Have No Hands lol). Theres a certain location from shore where I have been broken off 3 times by nice spotties in the rocks while using 30 pound power pro with a 12 fluro leader. I noticed even with the fluro i get less bites than i would with 6 pound mono....but due to these fish pulling me into the rocks (yes, with the drag cranked down) im in a dillema on what to do.

Fishing the heavier stuff and getting less bites is the best solution in my eyes....but how is 12lb fluro effecting my fishing vs 6lb mono. I mean one is invisible right?

What are your thoughts on line size, mono vs fluro, braid etc. It should be interesting to see what other guys think on this. As for me....im starting to think i need to switch to a new type of fluro....

Also what are your thoughts on line size when fishing different baits....spinnerbaits, soft plastics etc. Thanks guys.

I am no expert, but isn't the thickness of 12 lb flouro about the same as 6lb mono? Maybe the 12lb flouro is the wrong color or something? I use 6 lb copolymer with a 6lb flouro leader and haven't gotten broken of yet. I think I will move up to 12lb copolymer and a 12lb flouro leader the next time I'm in the salt just in case I actually get ahold of a fish worth taking a picture of.

Im pretty sure the line size isnt smaller once you switch over to fluro.

I should also point out that each time i got broke off the fish hit the lure right in front of the "rocks", right at the edge. Each time i sat there for 10-15 minutes trying to pry the fish out but it didnt happen. Each time i broke off at the connection or the leader itself. I will try to hit this area from the tube.....get some better leverage on the fish but would like to land the bigger models from the shore when needed without losing anymore.

well right now I`ve been using 30 lbs braided with a 12lbs mono leader, for swim baits and work good for me. 10 lbs flouro for organic bait. I`d also like to hear what other use!

for bay fishing and LMB I use 10lb p-line cx on baitcaster and 8lb on p-line cx on my spinner. The only time I get broken off is due to pilings. both reels are 1/2 - 3/4 spooled up with braid only for backing.

there is alot of opions on what type of line works best.
mono, fluro or braid.
this is what i have learned so far
mono/fluro is more abraision resistance on rocks, pilings etc
you will get cut off faster with braid than mono/fluro.
braid works awsome in kelp only as it saws right through and braid is more sensitive, you feel everything with it.

my boat rods are loaded up with 65lb braid and use a short fluro topshot and have yet to get broken off yet, or at least that i can remember.

Ill have to agree with miller, P-line is the way to go. I use the same 10lb on baitcaster an 8lb on spinner. P-line is some of the strongest line I have ever used. I think they hold more records for lite test on big fish. I know of one guy catchin a 20lb carp on 2lb p-line.

i agree with tubinferbass...p-line is the way to go in my opinion

Yup im using p-line now....i think i just need to rip those bass from the rocks before they lock themselves in. I think if i work the same area from a tube ill be set cause if the fish go to the rocks i can easily pull them out. Next time from the shore ill use my heavier stick.....less give in the rod should mean harder for the fish to "rock" me.

I love my set ups now.....got 30lb power pro with 12lb fluro leader on my curado 200 e5.....6lb p-line on my 200 e7......braid is on the 5 cause i dont need the higher gear ratio to give me a good hookset....the braid does it for me....but with the 6lb test the higher gear ratio def helps with good hooksets.

Gonna respool my reel with fresh power pro and some fresh fluro....gonna hit the fishies hard tomorrow.

what is p line???? i just loged to bassproshop and the website looks very weird!!! is it on meintenace or wth? couldt even find any lines at all [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Hey guys,
Here's what I know about line.
mono- At this point in fishing history there are more monofilament formulas then ever before, and a mind boggling array of properties, and features. Here is what I think and why.

1) Tensile strength
Obviously you want a line that will have good tensile strength. But don't let it be the reason you pick a particular line. Most lines are rated well below their true tensile strength ( even the crappiest stuff) in relation to their diameter. So tensile strength is usually a given. 10lb is 10lb is 10lb.! ( up to ten lbs. that is, hee hee)
2) Castabillity,
How well a line casts is a function of it's...
3) Diameter to tensile strength... High strength to low diameter, good!
4) Suppleness... supple, good ! ( too supple , not so good.)
5) Memory... Low memory, good !

6) Abrasion strength
This is to me one of the most difficult features to quantify and I personally don't pay too much attention to it. How well a line rubs against a rock before it breaks? Weird question. Good abrasion strength usually means greater diameter to tensile strength (thicker) and not so supple.(stiff)
7) Sensitivity
This one cracks me up. Once again, thicker , stiffer.
Visibility
Aahh now here is a point of contention . And a good one. Low visibility? very very good.
Answer? and by the way THE only answer? 100% flourocarbon. Bucks up boys!

NOTE: flourocarbon sinks, not so good for topwater or dry fly, flourocarbon does not, knot, unless you use the right knot. hee hee learn the right ones.

9) Color
hmmm is it colored so I can see it? but if I can see it can the fish see it? clear for clear water? does that mean green for green water? then what is smoke for ? firewater? and pink is for queer water? hee hee hee

Anyways, I use flourocarbon. Period!

bodfish

PS
Braided? I really don't get this stuff. everybody puts a buttload of it on a little reel, and then ties a 100ft. of mono to the hook with a knot that may give you 50% of the breaking strength of both lines!.... uh ... what? the stuff is sensitive cuz it don't stretch and it goes through kelp and seal flesh like a buzzsaw. which is why it is on the environmentalists hitlist.

oh try this one. take your twenty pound set up, rod and reel. tie it off to the base of a tree.
set your drag for tractor pull, stand back 30-50 ft, plant your feet and I dare you to break that line anywhere but the knot or where the line crosses the spool by just pulling. CAN'T BE DONE!!
An old salt once told me,
"sonny there ain't nuthin on this coast you can't lick with 30lb,! A whole lotta 30lb."
40 years later ya know he's right!

Greate staff bod fish!! some one did his homework [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

P-line is a copolymer line which I think works great. I like to use p-lines Floroclear its a fluorocarbon coated copolymer its stronger than any momo I have found. Knot strength is awesome its worth the money. As far as braided line fisher swares by power pro I like sufix. Both work really good. Fisher uses 65lb braid fer his striper rod an says its great. I use 10lb sufix on my drop shot rod an neck it down to 6lb p-line.