deep diving cranks

I bought some deep diving cranks that run to about 15 feet I was wondering how far would I have to throw it to get it running into that 15 ft range I'm using 6lb line BTW

I nice cast and the speed of your retrieve will determine if you get into the 15 foot zone.
A faster retrieve the deeper the lure goes.
On the other hand a slow retrieve may get it to 8 or 10 feet.
You also have to consider the weight of your lure. A 1/4 ounce lure will only cast so far. A 1/2 ounce lure will cast a lot farther. I hope this helps.

Deep cranking on 6lb line is way too light in my opinion.

go with 10lb line and on your first few cranks crank fast and it will get it down deep then start your retreive

I know some guys that like to give it a good jerk before cranking to get it down a bit deeper and get it started. And these guys are right 6lbs line is way to light but it might help if you tell us what brand and model cranks you bought.

Ok ill try to up my line I'm using the strike king kvd 5xd

Hey guys,
Deep Diving Cranks!,...
First of all, yes I think the guys are right, you are using an awfully light line test for such an aggressive diving bait. I personally would suggest no lighter than twelve#. Also to aid in getting the bait down a bit faster Flourocarbon provides the added advantage of being a sinking line. The most important thing you need to understand about deep diving "bill" baits is that the angle of retrieve, (the angle of the bill in relation to the angle of the force exerted) and speed are key to how deep you can get the bait at a given distance of retrieval. Long casts, means flatter angle of retrieve (good) and the optimum speed is fast enough to keep the diving plane (the bill) at the steepest angle of attack ( the angle of the bill to earth level ) without overcoming it's planing (diving) ability. One of the most common mistakes fisherman make when learning to use deep divers, is to crank too fast and/or to pull too hard when retrieving, thus overcoming the diving planes ability to force the bait down and simply dragging it forward. This also occurs when the angle of the retrieve becomes too steep. (short casts, or the last third to quarter of the distance of the retrieve)

Ok,... so,.. you wanna go deep?
Long casts, resulting in low angle of retrieve, and the distance (time) for the bait to get down, and maintain depth in the strike zone.

Controlled speed of retrieval, fast enough to keep
a good angle of attack, but not so fast that you are causing the diving plane to "stall" and simply dragging the bait forward.

NOTE: at a certain point in the retrieval (usually the last third to quarter) you are no longer planing down, traveling level, but pulling up.

Flourocarbon line. It sinks.

Low speed reels, to prevent over cranking and over torquing,

Long, medium speed, medium power rods, to make long casts and smooth retrievals, (Fiberglass rods are still a favorite among some of the top pros because of it's slower action and slower speed, ideal for crank baits)

If you are really interested, check out this years Pro circuit results and coverage. This was the year of the Alabama Rig and the Deep Diving (planing) Baits. Several major tournaments were won using a technique I first saw in the 70s in the San Diego County lakes, where Pros would lay out several hundred feet of line (both casting and paying out line) above their target structure and then retrieve their baits at a slow calculated pace achieving estimated depths of their baits of 50' or more! (using out of the box 15-22' baits).

For short, (under 75') casting, try kneeling on the deck and submerging your rod tip deep in the water to help keep your angle of retrieve low. (Again an old tournament technique)

If you have access to a large swimming pool try testing and practicing. Observe how the different DD baits react to speed of retrieval and distance, remembering that the key here is ANGLE! Do not assume that just because the bait's package says 15' that it does not take a bit of technique to get it there!

The DD bait is a late design for fishing ( maybe the last 30-40 years) and it requires a bit (Ok,.. a lot!) of learning and practice to master. Even amongst the Pros there are but a handful of real experts. (Most of them from California because of our deep steeply banked, reservoirs). But if you can become proficient with them you have a leg up, and a better concept of deep water artificials.

bodfish

PS. Shallow water DDs,.. Hee, Hee,...one of my favorites!.. an entirely different and deadly technique! .... for another time......

bodfish wrote:
Hey guys,
Deep Diving Cranks!,...
First of all, yes I think the guys are right, you are using an awfully light line test for such an aggressive diving bait. I personally would suggest no lighter than twelve#. Also to aid in getting the bait down a bit faster Flourocarbon provides the added advantage of being a sinking line. The most important thing you need to understand about deep diving "bill" baits is that the angle of retrieve, (the angle of the bill in relation to the angle of the force exerted) and speed are key to how deep you can get the bait at a given distance of retrieval. Long casts, means flatter angle of retrieve (good) and the optimum speed is fast enough to keep the diving plane (the bill) at the steepest angle of attack ( the angle of the bill to earth level ) without overcoming it's planing (diving) ability. One of the most common mistakes fisherman make when learning to use deep divers, is to crank too fast and/or to pull too hard when retrieving, thus overcoming the diving planes ability to force the bait down and simply dragging it forward. This also occurs when the angle of the retrieve becomes too steep. (short casts, or the last third to quarter of the distance of the retrieve)

Ok,... so,.. you wanna go deep?
Long casts, resulting in low angle of retrieve, and the distance (time) for the bait to get down, and maintain depth in the strike zone.

Controlled speed of retrieval, fast enough to keep
a good angle of attack, but not so fast that you are causing the diving plane to "stall" and simply dragging the bait forward.

NOTE: at a certain point in the retrieval (usually the last third to quarter) you are no longer planing down, traveling level, but pulling up.

Flourocarbon line. It sinks.

Low speed reels, to prevent over cranking and over torquing,

Long, medium speed, medium power rods, to make long casts and smooth retrievals, (Fiberglass rods are still a favorite among some of the top pros because of it's slower action and slower speed, ideal for crank baits)

If you are really interested, check out this years Pro circuit results and coverage. This was the year of the Alabama Rig and the Deep Diving (planing) Baits. Several major tournaments were won using a technique I first saw in the 70s in the San Diego County lakes, where Pros would lay out several hundred feet of line (both casting and paying out line) above their target structure and then retrieve their baits at a slow calculated pace achieving estimated depths of their baits of 50' or more! (using out of the box 15-22' baits).

For short, (under 75') casting, try kneeling on the deck and submerging your rod tip deep in the water to help keep your angle of retrieve low. (Again an old tournament technique)

If you have access to a large swimming pool try testing and practicing. Observe how the different DD baits react to speed of retrieval and distance, remembering that the key here is ANGLE! Do not assume that just because the bait's package says 15' that it does not take a bit of technique to get it there!

The DD bait is a late design for fishing ( maybe the last 30-40 years) and it requires a bit (Ok,.. a lot!) of learning and practice to master. Even amongst the Pros there are but a handful of real experts. (Most of them from California because of our deep steeply banked, reservoirs). But if you can become proficient with them you have a leg up, and a better concept of deep water artificials.

bodfish

PS. Shallow water DDs,.. Hee, Hee,...one of my favorites!.. an entirely different and deadly technique! .... for another time......

Thanks bodfish now I have a way better understanding on dd cranks

bodfish wrote:
Hey guys,
Deep Diving Cranks!,...
First of all, yes I think the guys are right, you are using an awfully light line test for such an aggressive diving bait. I personally would suggest no lighter than twelve#. Also to aid in getting the bait down a bit faster Flourocarbon provides the added advantage of being a sinking line. The most important thing you need to understand about deep diving "bill" baits is that the angle of retrieve, (the angle of the bill in relation to the angle of the force exerted) and speed are key to how deep you can get the bait at a given distance of retrieval. Long casts, means flatter angle of retrieve (good) and the optimum speed is fast enough to keep the diving plane (the bill) at the steepest angle of attack ( the angle of the bill to earth level ) without overcoming it's planing (diving) ability. One of the most common mistakes fisherman make when learning to use deep divers, is to crank too fast and/or to pull too hard when retrieving, thus overcoming the diving planes ability to force the bait down and simply dragging it forward. This also occurs when the angle of the retrieve becomes too steep. (short casts, or the last third to quarter of the distance of the retrieve)

Ok,... so,.. you wanna go deep?
Long casts, resulting in low angle of retrieve, and the distance (time) for the bait to get down, and maintain depth in the strike zone.

Controlled speed of retrieval, fast enough to keep
a good angle of attack, but not so fast that you are causing the diving plane to "stall" and simply dragging the bait forward.

NOTE: at a certain point in the retrieval (usually the last third to quarter) you are no longer planing down, traveling level, but pulling up.

Flourocarbon line. It sinks.

Low speed reels, to prevent over cranking and over torquing,

Long, medium speed, medium power rods, to make long casts and smooth retrievals, (Fiberglass rods are still a favorite among some of the top pros because of it's slower action and slower speed, ideal for crank baits)

If you are really interested, check out this years Pro circuit results and coverage. This was the year of the Alabama Rig and the Deep Diving (planing) Baits. Several major tournaments were won using a technique I first saw in the 70s in the San Diego County lakes, where Pros would lay out several hundred feet of line (both casting and paying out line) above their target structure and then retrieve their baits at a slow calculated pace achieving estimated depths of their baits of 50' or more! (using out of the box 15-22' baits).

For short, (under 75') casting, try kneeling on the deck and submerging your rod tip deep in the water to help keep your angle of retrieve low. (Again an old tournament technique)

If you have access to a large swimming pool try testing and practicing. Observe how the different DD baits react to speed of retrieval and distance, remembering that the key here is ANGLE! Do not assume that just because the bait's package says 15' that it does not take a bit of technique to get it there!

The DD bait is a late design for fishing ( maybe the last 30-40 years) and it requires a bit (Ok,.. a lot!) of learning and practice to master. Even amongst the Pros there are but a handful of real experts. (Most of them from California because of our deep steeply banked, reservoirs). But if you can become proficient with them you have a leg up, and a better concept of deep water artificials.

bodfish

PS. Shallow water DDs,.. Hee, Hee,...one of my favorites!.. an entirely different and deadly technique! .... for another time......

pretty good info bod!